Here's a collection of vero and tagboard guitar and bass effect layouts that we have put together covering all of the classic and popular effects in ever growing numbers. Many of these have been posted on two excellent forums, freestompboxes.org and circuitworkshop.com. Check those out for other great designs, layouts and discussions on building your own effect pedals. Enjoy the builds and please visit us at www.facebook.com/tagboardeffects!
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it doesn't look like the 220nf cap is connected to anything on the third row at the moment, is the cut between the 220nf and the 1k resistor meant to be there? Looking at the schem it doesn't seem so.
No worries, I was on a conference call with work that wasn't very interesting otherwise I probably wouldn't have spotted it ;) Miro's layouts: Saving people from work place boredom since 2012!
I don't have an LM741 on hand, but I've got a stash of other ICs I'd like to use if it doesn't deviate too much from the way this pedal is supposed to sound.
I'm still a bit ignorant of the differences between these chips, so bear that in mind.
I've got a.. hmm.. a LM308 and an odd UA741cn. Do either of those sound like a decent substitute? It's not a big deal to get a few LM741s, I just hate to stop in the middle of a project to wait a week on the mail, especially if I've got a find alternative.
UA741cn and LM741 are the same, just different manufacturers I think. There shouldn't be any problem substituting one for the other. Someone else may have a bit more info on this though.
It isn't a race so just take your time. Double check everything that you do, component values, track cuts, link placing, component placing, wire connections. Count rows and columns to make sure you're getting everything where it should be.
Don't solder up the stomp switch until you know the board is working properly so you're not adding another potential point of failure. Just connect the input and output (volume 2) wires from the board directly to the input and output sockets (use a small terminal block to make the connections) to test.
I started a blog that follows me making this pedal. It's got a lot of high resolution pictures of each step along the way. Check it out at http://pedalprojects.blogspot.ca
I did it, I build this thing and it sounds great!!! One thing I have a question about it how do I know which side of the switches turns on and off the the components. I used on/on SPDT (3 lugs) switches and soldered just two of the lugs. So how do I know which side let's signal pass???
I don't understand the question. You're using a SPDT but you're using is as a SPST (with only 2 lugs being used), so the effect is either on or off.
If you imagine looking at the back of the switch like this:
1 2 3
The when the switch is in the down position, the contact is made between lugs 1 and 2. When in the up position the contact is made between 2 and 3. To get this clear in your own head get another switch and hook it up to your multimeter in the audible diode test mode. Then you will hear when the contacts are made when flipping the switch.
Thank you, that means a lot! I'm a big fan of this site, with all the guides and quick responses to questions, it gave me all the help I needed. It's a really nice set up you have here. For my next build i'm thinking of the Lovepedal Kalamazoo BTW, the post above answered my question
I've added a link to your site in the links at the side, I think it would be a great read for someone needing some inspiration, and it does emphasise that taking your time is the way to go which is great advice. Good luck with the Kalamazoo!
I've built this using a LM308N and it sounds huge, kind of a cross between the RAT and DIST+. The tone pot however doesn't seem to have much of a range/effect. I noticed on the premier guitar site it mentions using a 100k pot for the tone but this layout and the schematic on their site shows a 1M, maybe an error?
The smooth drive switch turns the sound very fuzzy (almost velcro fuzz factory style) which is cool! The bass boost sounds spot on. The compression switch is also quite subtle but works well - I was thinking of putting an SPDT on off on in there with a cap for 'high' and 'low' compression options, how would I go about that?
The article has both: "A much better use would be to wire a 100k pot in series with a .0022uF cap in place of C5. This will act as a tone control." and "Change C5 to a .0022uf and wired in series with a 1m audio taper pot to act as a tone control."
Compression switch adds 10n cap in parallel with 1n, so you should figure out how to add one more cap in to that mix.. Or you could just play around with values for those two.. +m
I just finished this, but the smooth switch leaves something to be desired...it is super quiet. I used IN4007's instead of IN4001's for D5-D8. Also for the 330nf and 1uf caps I used some monolithic ceramics. The distortion is a little bit grainy at lower drive settings, all the way up sounds decent though. Any of that an issue?
The smooth switch introduces the other clipping diodes which tends to cut the volume a little but it shouldn't be too drastic, it might be worth check the orientation of diodes 1, 2, 5 and 6. There shouldn't be any problems with the diodes and caps you've substituted, 1n4007s are very similar to 4001s and Monolithic/Multilayer ceramics shouldn't sound much different from any other decent cap.
I just did this as well and my smooth switch is a little weird. It didn't work at all at first but I swapped out one of the 1N34A's (which I routinely snap in half) out for another one. It sounds like the almost clean signal with some low level distortion behind it (at a lower volume) Like 2 separate signals. Anyway, can I use some other diode there? BAT41's or something? I assume diodes are almost always interchangeable.
Yup. You could try on any diodes. 12V zeners sound really good too. I think that schotkys are a bit softer than 1N4148s. I've had too many dodgy 1N34As to call them good diodes for anything. You'll need two pairs of pliers to bend them :) +m
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but it doesn't look like the 220nf cap is connected to anything on the third row at the moment, is the cut between the 220nf and the 1k resistor meant to be there? Looking at the schem it doesn't seem so.
ReplyDeleteWell spotted. That cut was leftover from me compacting the layout. Fixed.
Delete+m
No worries, I was on a conference call with work that wasn't very interesting otherwise I probably wouldn't have spotted it ;) Miro's layouts: Saving people from work place boredom since 2012!
DeleteI totally second that !
DeleteTone pot is backwards.
ReplyDeleteYou built it? I'll fix the labels.
Delete+m
Hi,
DeleteI am just ordering parts for this,what would be the best equivalent for the 1N34A diodes please - having trouble getting some.
Thanks
Just search for them on eBay, otherwise just use a 1n4148,the sound won't be quite the same though.
DeleteVerified! Sounds great, it keeps the tone of the Dist+ but has a great versatility that makes it more friendly with your rig. Thanks!
ReplyDeleteThanks Luis! You've been building a lot lately!
Delete+m
I don't have an LM741 on hand, but I've got a stash of other ICs I'd like to use if it doesn't deviate too much from the way this pedal is supposed to sound.
ReplyDeleteI'm still a bit ignorant of the differences between these chips, so bear that in mind.
I've got a.. hmm.. a LM308 and an odd UA741cn. Do either of those sound like a decent substitute? It's not a big deal to get a few LM741s, I just hate to stop in the middle of a project to wait a week on the mail, especially if I've got a find alternative.
Thanks!
UA741cn and LM741 are the same, just different manufacturers I think. There shouldn't be any problem substituting one for the other. Someone else may have a bit more info on this though.
DeleteSo am I correct in thinking there are 3 switches on this on ??
ReplyDeleteI'm about to build this as my first "REAL" project in a couple of days, just waiting on my parts to come in. Is there anything I sound keep in mind??
ReplyDeleteIt isn't a race so just take your time. Double check everything that you do, component values, track cuts, link placing, component placing, wire connections. Count rows and columns to make sure you're getting everything where it should be.
DeleteDon't solder up the stomp switch until you know the board is working properly so you're not adding another potential point of failure. Just connect the input and output (volume 2) wires from the board directly to the input and output sockets (use a small terminal block to make the connections) to test.
Follow all that and I'm sure you'll be fine.
Thanks, now I can't wait to get started!!!
DeleteI started a blog that follows me making this pedal. It's got a lot of high resolution pictures of each step along the way. Check it out at http://pedalprojects.blogspot.ca
ReplyDeleteExcellent, thanks for the link Dimitri
DeleteI did it, I build this thing and it sounds great!!!
DeleteOne thing I have a question about it how do I know which side of the switches turns on and off the the components. I used on/on SPDT (3 lugs) switches and soldered just two of the lugs. So how do I know which side let's signal pass???
Also it get's kinda bassy when I turn the gain up, is that normal?
DeleteI don't understand the question. You're using a SPDT but you're using is as a SPST (with only 2 lugs being used), so the effect is either on or off.
DeleteIf you imagine looking at the back of the switch like this:
1
2
3
The when the switch is in the down position, the contact is made between lugs 1 and 2. When in the up position the contact is made between 2 and 3. To get this clear in your own head get another switch and hook it up to your multimeter in the audible diode test mode. Then you will hear when the contacts are made when flipping the switch.
Incidentally, I've just looked at the pictures on your blog and you've done a great job of it, and even more so considering it's your first build
DeleteThank you, that means a lot! I'm a big fan of this site, with all the guides and quick responses to questions, it gave me all the help I needed. It's a really nice set up you have here. For my next build i'm thinking of the Lovepedal Kalamazoo
DeleteBTW, the post above answered my question
I've added a link to your site in the links at the side, I think it would be a great read for someone needing some inspiration, and it does emphasise that taking your time is the way to go which is great advice. Good luck with the Kalamazoo!
DeleteThank you again
DeleteI've built this using a LM308N and it sounds huge, kind of a cross between the RAT and DIST+. The tone pot however doesn't seem to have much of a range/effect. I noticed on the premier guitar site it mentions using a 100k pot for the tone but this layout and the schematic on their site shows a 1M, maybe an error?
ReplyDeleteThe smooth drive switch turns the sound very fuzzy (almost velcro fuzz factory style) which is cool! The bass boost sounds spot on. The compression switch is also quite subtle but works well - I was thinking of putting an SPDT on off on in there with a cap for 'high' and 'low' compression options, how would I go about that?
Thanks, learning a lot!
The article has both:
Delete"A much better use would be to wire a 100k pot in series with a .0022uF cap in place of C5. This will act as a tone control."
and
"Change C5 to a .0022uf and wired in series with a 1m audio taper pot to act as a tone control."
Compression switch adds 10n cap in parallel with 1n, so you should figure out how to add one more cap in to that mix.. Or you could just play around with values for those two..
+m
I just finished this, but the smooth switch leaves something to be desired...it is super quiet. I used IN4007's instead of IN4001's for D5-D8. Also for the 330nf and 1uf caps I used some monolithic ceramics. The distortion is a little bit grainy at lower drive settings, all the way up sounds decent though. Any of that an issue?
ReplyDeleteThe smooth switch introduces the other clipping diodes which tends to cut the volume a little but it shouldn't be too drastic, it might be worth check the orientation of diodes 1, 2, 5 and 6. There shouldn't be any problems with the diodes and caps you've substituted, 1n4007s are very similar to 4001s and Monolithic/Multilayer ceramics shouldn't sound much different from any other decent cap.
DeleteI just did this as well and my smooth switch is a little weird. It didn't work at all at first but I swapped out one of the 1N34A's (which I routinely snap in half) out for another one. It sounds like the almost clean signal with some low level distortion behind it (at a lower volume) Like 2 separate signals. Anyway, can I use some other diode there? BAT41's or something? I assume diodes are almost always interchangeable.
DeleteYup. You could try on any diodes. 12V zeners sound really good too. I think that schotkys are a bit softer than 1N4148s. I've had too many dodgy 1N34As to call them good diodes for anything. You'll need two pairs of pliers to bend them :)
Delete+m
..Or tweezers.
Delete+m